The VAAPR bed must be adhered to the aluminum build plate, and not a removable alternative. This is critical to the performance of this product.

1. REMOVE your current print bed to expose the aluminum build plate. 
   

2. CLEAN THE ALUMINUM: Air bubbles, dust and adhesive residue can affect print quality, use the provided alcohol wipes to create a clean, debris free surface. Dispose of the wipes when complete to avoid contamination of the bed.
   

DO NOT USE ON THE ALCOHOL WIPES ON THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!

(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water. SOAP MUST NOT BE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: 'HEAVY DUTY', SCENTED, OR ALCOHOL BASED. )

3. HEAT BUILD PLATE: Set bed temperature to 40℃.
   

4. WASH HANDS: before installing the VAAPR print bed to avoid transfer of oils or residue.
5. INSTALL BED:

             a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm or 2” 

             b. Align the bed corner markings with the back corners of the build surface and gently set  in place. 

             c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).

             d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the build plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table. 

           e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.

                       i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.

             f. Once film is completely removed,  Push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.

6. Clean the VAAPR print bed with a soft wet cloth and a drop of mild dish soap. 

CAUTION! ALCOHOL, ACETONE, and most SOLVENTS will DAMAGE VAAPR print bed.‍

‍

In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.

For a stock Ender 3 Install the Spool Holder Adapter.

1. Using M5 x 25 cap screws and T-nuts removed earlier, install the spool holder adapter vertically on the left hand side of the printer frame, as shown.

‍

2. Attach the original spool holder to the adapter using the nuts and T-nuts that were put aside during removal. Ensure that the flat side of the metal bracket is facing backwards, as pictured.
   
   

Alternate spool mounting prints are available on the resources page i.e. for use with a direct drive system.

7.1 Plug & Play Quinly Wireless Hub

This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.

Step 1: connect to Wifi.

Step 2: attach to printer.

See Quinly Wireless Hub Setup

7.2 DIY Raspberry Pi 4 2GB with Micro SD Card

See DIY Pi Installation

USE EXTREME CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR BED.

A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.
   

2. If using auto levelling; ensure your probe reliably triggers before attempting to level the bed. Home X Y and Z.
   

3. If not using auto levelling; you will need to lower the Z-endstop switch so that the nozzle gently touches the bed when activated. Once adjusted, rotate all four leveling wheels three revolutions counterclockwise, lowering the bed to prevent scratching.
   

4. HEAT PRINT BED to 60°C, it is important that the hotend remains cool.
   

5. USING LCD SCREEN

             a. MOVE NOZZLE TO ONE CORNER of build plate. Slide a piece of paper underneath it.

             b. GRADUALLY MOVE NOZZLE TO Z = 0. 

6. ADJUST BED LEVELLING  screws until you can feel friction while sliding the paper between the nozzle and print bed.
   

7. REPEAT STEPS 3 and 4 for each of the other 3 corners. Take care not to scratch the build plate when moving from one corner to another.
   
   
8. REPEAT STEPS 3 and 4 a second time.
   

USE EXTREME CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR BED.

A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.
   

2. HOME XYZ.
   

3. HEAT THE PRINT BED to 60°C, it is important that the hotend remains cool.
   

4. CENTER NOZZLE above middle of print bed.
   

5. USING LCD SCREEN, gradually move the nozzle to Z = 0.

              a. If the nozzle cannot touch the paper even when Z = 0, decrease your z-offset in 0.5mm increments, home XYZ and try again.

              b. If your nozzle touches the paper before Z = 0, then increase your z-offset, home XYZ and try again.

6. ADJUST Z-OFFSET setting until at Z = 0, you feel friction while sliding the paper between the nozzle and print bed.
   

7. Save new z-offset settings to EEPROM by clicking “Store settings”.
   

8. To ensure a proper calibration, home your printer using the G28 command or the LCD controls. Then, lower your Z axis to 0 and again slide a piece of paper under the nozzle, feeling for the same resistance as before.
   

ALWAYS check that print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.

This step is required to orientate the location of your probe in relation to the nozzle, allowing the software to compensate for offset. 

1. Measure the distance (in mm) between your z-probe and the tip of your nozzle in two directions, as shown. 

‍

Y-Offset 

The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.

(Measured along the Y-Axis)

‍

‍X-Offset 

The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.

(Measured along the X-Axis)

‍

2. Navigate to the Gcode Console Tab on the Printer Overview page.

3. Set your probe X and Y-offset by sending the command M851 X## Y## through the gcode sender, built into Quinly. Where ## is the distance between the probe and the nozzle. The following information will help you translate what you see, when looking at the front of the printer, into the correct inputs.

           LEFT: If probe is left of the nozzle, use a dash (X-##)

           e.g. X-35 = probe is 35mm left of nozzle

‍

           RIGHT: If probe is to the right of the nozzle, do not use a dash (X##)

           e.g. X35 = probe is 35mm right of nozzle 

‍

          IN FRONT: If probe is in front of nozzle, use a dash (Y-##)

          e.g. Y-4 = probe is 4mm in front of nozzle

‍

          BEHIND: If probe is behind the nozzle, do not use a dash (Y##)

          e.g. Y4 = probe is 4mm behind nozzle

‍

4. ENTER X and Y-offset values as described in previous step. Save settings to EEPROM with M500. Here’s an example: 

‍

M851 X-35 Y4 ; Probe is 35mm left and 4mm behind the nozzle.

M500 ; Save settings to EEPROM 

Bed Temperature:

For PLA we recommend a 60℃ bed temperature for optimum adhesion.

Nozzle Temperature:  

Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation.

Skirts and Brims:

We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting the skirt distance to 0.39mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Using a single line skirt allows easy post processing.

Slicing Settings:

‍Find the best slicing settles for your slicer here.

1. Upload your sliced files, ensure that they are formatted as ‘.gcode’. Either from the main Printer Overview Page, or the files page.
   

2. Select the file, hit the "Add to Queue" button, choose your quantity and release temperature (release temperature is the temperature at which your printer will reset at) and send it to the queue. 
   

3. Ensure your first layer is adhering correctly; check for correct layer height or peeling. You may “Abort” the job on the Printers page if any fine-tuning is required.
   
   Note: When a job is aborted, a new job must be submitted to the queue, and the printer will be suspended. 
   

If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server. 

You may also take a look at our Troubleshooting Page for any additional issues you may encounter.

First Layer not Sticking during printing

1. Ensure that your bed temperature is set to 60℃.
   

2. Clean the bed with dish soap and warm water as detailed in the bed installation guide.
   

3. Make sure your z-offset is set correctly, the first layer should have some ”squish” as it is layed down, while still leaving room for filament to flow out of the nozzle.
   

4. Increase your nozzle temperature, we have found that some PLAs enjoy a slightly hotter hotend for good bed and layer adhesion.
   

5. Slow down your first layer, a little bit of patience can often be the key to a great print.

‍

Rough Overhangs

1. Check part cooling fan. In your slicer, the fan speed should be set to 100% with the standard fan and you should see it spinning after the first layer.
   

2. Incorrect nozzle temperature. Play with the temperature of your nozzle for printing. Too high or too low of a print temperature can cause rough overhangs very easily.

‍

Rough Print Surface

1. Under extrusion, check to make sure your nozzle is set to at least the minimum temperature requirements of the filament.
   

2. Your hotend may be clogged, try to remove the filament while hot, this should not have much friction.
   

3. Ensure that you are not printing too fast for your nozzle.

‍