Quinly for Ender 3

Last Updated June 23, 2022

Thank you for purchasing the Quinly for Ender 3, an automated print management system compatible with Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 3D printers. Quinly works day and night, evenings and weekends, so you don’t have to. Quinly can run a well-calibrated, properly maintained 3D printer continuously until it runs out of filament. Quinly is also compatible with a variety of modifications. If you are unsure about compatibility please contact us. 

Quinly automation is enabled by the VAAPR™ print bed which is the first surface for 3D printers offering variable adhesion - high first-layer adhesion when hot, and no first-layer adhesion when it’s cold. 

DO NOT USE adhesives, solvents, scrapers. DO NOT remove parts from a hot bed. These actions will damage the VAAPR print bed and Quinly will not work properly.

Follow this manual carefully and Quinly will save you hundreds of hours scheduling jobs, uploading files, running prints, and removing parts. Quinly’s purpose is to make your life easier by saving you hours of scraping, taping, flexing, removing parts, scheduling jobs, and generally having to babysit your printer. 

So please, set Quinly up for success - read this manual, follow the instructions carefully, and if you have any questions, contact us at support@3DQue.com or post them in our community Discord channel (https://discord.gg/JN9EDP8). 

To get even better quality from your printer, we recommend installing an automatic bed-leveling system before using this product. We provide firmware options for Inductive Probes and BL Touch.

WARNING: 3D printers have heated elements that pose a fire risk. Follow all manufacturers instructions and safety measures which may include not leaving the printer unattended without appropriate safety features in place. Incorrect firmware or slicing settings for your printer configuration may pose a hazard. If you are unsure, please contact 3DQue through the community Discord channel or support@3DQue.com

1.0 What's in the Kit

Version 2 (Latest Version)


  1 x VAAPR print bed

Printed Parts

  5 x Part guidance ramps (E3, E4, E5, E6, E7)

  • Center Ramp (E3)*
  • Front Ramp Left (E4)
  • Front Ramp Right (E5)
  • Side Ramp Left (E6)
  • Side Ramp Right (E7)

  1 x Angle Bracket Left (E17)

  1 x Angle Bracket Right (E18) 

  1 x Spool Holder Angle Bracket (E8)

 1 x Front Foot (E15)

  1 x LCD Mount Bracket (E16)


6 x M5 Small T-nuts

6 x M5 x 8mm Screws (1 spare)

6 x M5 x 25mm Screws

 4 x M5 Hex Nuts

 4 x Rubber Feet

Version 1 (Discontinued)


  1 x VAAPR print bed

Tilt Frame

  2 x Aluminum extrusion bases

  4 x Rubber feet

Printed Parts

  5 x Part guidance ramps (E3, E4, E5, E6, E7)

  • Center Ramp (E3)*
  • Front Ramp Left (E4)
  • Front Ramp Right (E5)
  • Side Ramp Left (E6)
  • Side Ramp Right (E7)
  • 4 x Feet Mounts (Q7)

  1 x Angle Bracket Left (E17)

  1 x Angle Bracket Right (E18) 

 1 x Spool Holder Angle Bracket (E8)

  1 x LCD mount bracket (E9)

2.0 What You'll Need


  • >2GB Raspberry Pi 4
  • Raspberry Pi power source
  • 16GB micro SD card
  • Printer to RPi Cable:

           -USB Mini-B to USB-A  (8 bit boards)

            -USB Micro to USB-A  (32 bit boards)

  • USB/SD to micro SD adapter (SD card reader)
  • Ender 3 (Standard, V2, Pro, or X)
  • Laptop or desktop computer
  • 3x cotton or microfiber cloths
  • Mild dish soap
  • Included alcohol wipes
  • 3mm Allen key


  • Ethernet cable
  • USB memory stick
  • Raspberry Pi mount (included with the Pi Kit)

3.0 3DQue Resources

All resources can be found on the Resources page. To access click here.

4.0 Preparation

All downloads have been made available through the 3DQue Resources Page

  1. Download the Firmware Updater Package, this will be specific to your printer configuration (see flow chart below, if you are unsure which package to download).

Note: If you have upgrades not mentioned in this flowchart, or wish to make your own custom firmware, there are instructions and files to help you in the "32 Bit Source Repository" located under the firmware packages on the Resources Page.

5.0 Flashing Firmware

8-bit or 32-bit Creality Mainboard - Which do you have?

The process for flashing firmware is different for an 8-bit Creality Mainboard than a 32-bit Creality Mainboard. Ender 3 V2 and some Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro printers have 32-bit Creality Mainboards. The following guide will help you to identify which board you have, if you remain unsure, contact us at support@3dque.com.

Select Your Printer Type:

5.1 Firmware Update with 8-bit Mainboard

Mini USB-B cable used with 8-bit boards.
  1. Turn printer off.
  1. Connect your computer to the printer via USB cable.
  1. Turn printer on.
  1. Unzip 3DQue Firmware Updater Package you downloaded (Getting Started, Section 4.0). 
  1. Double-click OpenFirmwareWindows file. A preconfigured Arduino IDE will open.
    (Mac users: install the .dmg in the MacOSX folder)
  1. In the Arduino IDE, go to ‘TOOLS’ on the menu bar, scroll down to Port, and select the port your printer cable is connected to.
  1. Click the upload button (arrow pointing right) on the menu bar.

Note: If the upload fails, your board may not have a bootloader installed. To install a bootloader, continue to section 5.2.

Note: If you get the error "EEPROM VERSION" , then please hit "Ignore". Then in the LCD menu, navigate to Configuration > Store settings, then click. A "beep" should happen, and the error message should be resolved.

Another solution is to connect your Ender 3 to Pronterface via USB, and send the commands `M502` followed by `M500`

Note: Your Z offset will need to be recalibrated after flashing firmware.

5.2 Burning Bootloader (only if firmware failed to upload in the previous section)

Some Ender 3s with 8-bit controllers (V1.X.X) may not come with a preinstalled bootloader. In these cases you will be unable to update the firmware via USB. Luckily, this can be easily resolved by installing it yourself.

  1. LOCATE THE USBasp device in your kit (as shown). You will see 1 ribbon cable and two circuit boards. The large circuit board has a USB connection.
  • Ensure the jumper cable is on the 5v pin (furthest from the USB as shown)

  1. CONNECT RIBBON CABLE to the smaller circuit board (no USB).
  1. CONNECT TO LAPTOP using the USB on the larger circuit board. If you do not have Windows, proceed to step 4.
  • FOR WINDOWS ONLY: In the firmware package, run the “Burn Bootloader - Zadig” application. It should automatically be populated as shown below. Press Install Driver.
  • Note: use caution with Zadig as selecting the wrong device may result in driver malfunctions

             a. Turn your printer off and disconnect it from the wall.

             b. Open Mainboard cover. Do not remove this cover unless your printer is powered off and disconnected.

             c. Check USBasp device is connected to the SPI pins on the Mainboard. 

             d. Locate the SPI pins (set of 6 pins next to the USB port on the Mainboard). 

        e. Locate the corresponding 6-pin connector on the USBasp device. 

        f. BEFORE CONNECTING CHECK ORIENTATION - It is incredibly important that you ensure the orientation is correct . Risk of permanent damage to the Mainboard.
        g. Align the pin labeled “RST” to the Top Left SPI pin on the Mainboard.

        5. CONNECT RIBBON CABLE the other end of the ribbon cable to the USB board plugged into your laptop. A blue light on the Mainboard should come on.

        6. RUN OPENFIRMWARE for your operating system, e.g. “OpenFirmwareWindows.bat”. 

               a. Select Tools > Programmer, select “USBasp”. 

             b. Select Tools > Burn Bootloader. 

         7. Select Tools > Programmer, select “AVRISP mkII” 

             The Mainboard now has a bootloader and firmware can be updated via USB. 

        8. Replace the motherboard cover and re-connect your printer to power. 

        9. Return to Section 5.1 Update Ender 3 Firmware.

5.1 Firmware Update with 32-bit Mainboard

Micro USB used with 32-bit Mainboards
  1. Turn the printer off.
  2. Unzip 3DQue Firmware Updater Package you downloaded (Getting Started, Section 4.0).
  3. Insert a blank SD card into your computer.
  4. Find the .bin file in the Firmware Updater Package folder and copy it onto the SD card.
  5. Insert the SD card into your printer.
  6. Turn the printer on and wait for the screen to illuminate with the main menu.

Note: If you have an Ender 3 V2 with LCD screen, you will also need to flash the Screen Firmware. Please see step 5.2 below.

5.2 Update Screen Firmware (Only if your screen stops working after 5.1)

Flashing Ender 3 V2 Screen Firmware


    a. Format an SD card to FAT32, default partition size and no volume label.

    b. Find the DWIN_SET folder in the Firmware Updater Package and copy to the freshly formatted card.


    a. Unplug and remove the screen

    b. Unscrew the 4 retaining screws from the back and pull off the cover.

    c. Push SD card into unpowered screen.


     a. Plug screen into printer.

     b. Power on and wait for the screen to light up orange.


     a. Power off printer.

     b. Remove SD card.

     c. Reassemble cover.

     d. Plug back into into printer.


6.0 Assemble the Kit

6.1 Preparing Your Printer

Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro

1. Remove the spool holder and set the bolts and T-nuts aside.

2. Unscrew LCD display screen and put the bolts aside - do not unplug.

Ender 3 V2

1. Remove the spool holder and set the bolts and T-nuts aside.

2. Move LCD mount to the front of the upper slot of the printer extrusion. Set the upper bolt and T-nut aside.

3. Remove plastic extrusion end cap and tool drawer from the right hand side of the printer.

6.2 Install VAAPR™ Bed

(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)

The VAAPR bed must be adhered to the aluminum build plate, and not a removable alternative. This is critical to the performance of this product.

  1. REMOVE your current print bed to expose the aluminum build plate. 
  1. CLEAN THE ALUMINUM: Air bubbles, dust and adhesive residue can affect print quality, use the provided alcohol wipes to create a clean, debris free surface. Dispose of the wipes when complete to avoid contamination of the bed.


Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!

(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water. SOAP MUST NOT BE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: 'HEAVY DUTY', SCENTED, OR ALCOHOL BASED. )

  1. HEAT BUILD PLATE: Set bed temperature to 40℃.
  1. WASH HANDS: before installing the VAAPR print bed to avoid transfer of oils or residue.

             a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm or 2” 

             b. Align the bed corner markings with the back corners of the build surface and gently set  in place. 

             c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).

             d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the build plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table. 

           e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.

                       i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.

             f. Once film is completely removed,  Push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.

  1. Clean the VAAPR print bed with a soft wet cloth and a drop of mild dish soap. 


In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.

6.3 Install Quinly Tilt Frame (Version 1)

(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)

  1. Remove LCD and spool holder, keep mounting hardware for relocation
  • V2 Only: move LCD mount to the front of the upper slot of the printer base 
  • Remove plastic base end caps and tool drawer from the right side of the printer


     2. Attach the feet mounts (Q7) onto the ends of the provided aluminum extrusions, if not attached already

      3. Using the T-nuts and M5 bolts, attach the larger sides of the angle brackets (E17/E18) to the provided extrusion to make the Quinly base:

  • Tilt-in the taller edge to the extrusion and fasten with an M5 8mm bolt and large T-nut, the T-nut should rotate perpendicular to the slot as the bolt is fastened.
  • Repeat with the mirrored bracket
  • Slide both brackets 10 cm from the extrusion ends to the short side of the brackets and tighten (3 cm on the V2)

    4. Attach base to printer.

  • Rotate the printer onto the right side
  • Install left front panel

On the left ender extrusion loosen the bottom right bolt about 3mm

Clip the Front Ramp Left (E4) into the bottom slot of the Y-axis extrusion. A slot should align with the loosened bolt.

  • Place a small T-nut just behind the front rubber pad in the bottom slot
  • Tilt in the left bracket (narrow side forward) where it touches the front rubber pad
  • Using a free hand, align the t-nut with the allen key, then fasten with an M5 bolt
  • Fasten a nut in the rear hole

     5. Flip the printer to the left side

  • Attach the LCD to LCD Mount (E9)
    (skip LCD install if using V2)

Slide hex nuts into mount holes, push in with an allen key if needed

Attach the LCD to the mount with M5 bolts from behind

Attach the LCD mount to the original LCD mounting holes, leave the lower left bolt unscrewed about 3mm

Attach the Front Ramp Right (E5) the same as the left one. Attach the right tilt bracket in the same way as the left one

        6. Place the printer upright and clip in the centre ramp (E3) then the side ramps (E6, E7) into the outer slots of the left and right Ender base extrusion

6.4 Install Quinly Tilt Base (Version 2)

  1. Remove LCD and spool holder, keep screws and nuts.
  2. Prepare the E17 and E18 tilt brackets by installing the M5x8mm and 2020 T-nuts to prepare them for the printer.
  3. Using the provided rubber feet, peel off and adhere to the bottom of the tilt brackets (E17/E18), front foot (E15), and LCD mount (E16) using the provided slots.
  1. On a clean a table, gentle rotate your Ender 3 onto its left side.
  2. Slide in the T-nuts of the E18 tilt brackets and slide the tilt brackets until the front of the tilt bracket is 115m from the front of the printer. Tighten the fasteners.
  1. Rotate the printer on its right side and repeat step 5 for E17 tilt bracket.

    For Ender 3 V2: Skip to step 12.
  2. Unscrew M5 screws fastening the electronics box from the front, see below.
  1. With the E15 front foot, use the providedM5x25mm screws to fasten the E15 to the printer. Keep screws loose for now as there will be a need for space for E4 front ramp later.
  1. With the E16 LCD Mount, insert the 2 square nuts provided into the holes on the aft side of the mount.
  1. Align the holes of the LCD plate with the holes of the LCD mount and fasten using the provided M5x8mm.
  1. Similar to the front foot, using the provided M5x25mm screws, fasten the LCD mount.
  1. Using the E4 left front ramp, slide the flange into the gap as shown below.
  1. Clip the other end of E4 into the bottom slot of the extrusion as shown.

  14. Using E5 right front ramp, slide in E5 flange into the gap as shown below.

  15. Clip the other end of the E5 into the appropriate slot of the extrusion as shown.

Note: Depending on the version of Ender 3 that you have, there may be a gap present on both E15 and E16. This is acceptable.

  16. Using E3 center ramp, clip into the slot as shown.

  17. Clip on the E6 and E7 Side ramps on the side extrusions.

    6.5 Reinstall the Spool Holder and LCD

    For a stock Ender 3 Install the Spool Holder Adapter.

    1. Using M5 x 25 cap screws and T-nuts removed earlier, install the spool holder adapter vertically on the left hand side of the printer frame, as shown.

    1. Attach the original spool holder to the adapter using the nuts and T-nuts that were put aside during removal. Ensure that the flat side of the metal bracket is facing backwards, as pictured.

      Alternate spool mounting prints are available on the resources page i.e. for use with a direct drive system.

    7.0 Installing Software

    7.1 Plug & Play Quinly Wireless Hub

    This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.

    Step 1: connect to Wifi.

    Step 2: attach to printer.

    See Quinly Wireless Hub Setup

    7.2 DIY Raspberry Pi 4 2GB with Micro SD Card

    See DIY Pi Installation

    8.0 Prepare for Automated Printing

    8.1 Leveling Your Print Bed


    A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

    1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.
    1. If using auto levelling; ensure your probe reliably triggers before attempting to level the bed. Home X Y and Z.
    1. If not using auto levelling; you will need to lower the Z-endstop switch so that the nozzle gently touches the bed when activated. Once adjusted, rotate all four leveling wheels three revolutions counterclockwise, lowering the bed to prevent scratching.
    1. HEAT PRINT BED to 60°C, it is important that the hotend remains cool.

                 a. MOVE NOZZLE TO ONE CORNER of build plate. Slide a piece of paper underneath it.

                 b. GRADUALLY MOVE NOZZLE TO Z = 0. 

    1. ADJUST BED LEVELLING  screws until you can feel friction while sliding the paper between the nozzle and print bed.
    1. REPEAT STEPS 3 and 4 for each of the other 3 corners. Take care not to scratch the build plate when moving from one corner to another.

    2. REPEAT STEPS 3 and 4 a second time.

    8.2 Calibrating Z- Offset


    A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

    1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.
    1. HOME XYZ.
    1. HEAT THE PRINT BED to 60°C, it is important that the hotend remains cool.
    1. CENTER NOZZLE above middle of print bed.
    1. USING LCD SCREEN, gradually move the nozzle to Z = 0.

                  a. If the nozzle cannot touch the paper even when Z = 0, decrease your z-offset in 0.5mm increments, home XYZ and try again.

                  b. If your nozzle touches the paper before Z = 0, then increase your z-offset, home XYZ and try again.

    1. ADJUST Z-OFFSET setting until at Z = 0, you feel friction while sliding the paper between the nozzle and print bed.
    1. Save new z-offset settings to EEPROM by clicking “Store settings”.
    1. To ensure a proper calibration, home your printer using the G28 command or the LCD controls. Then, lower your Z axis to 0 and again slide a piece of paper under the nozzle, feeling for the same resistance as before.

    ALWAYS check that print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.

    8.3 Calibrating Probe X and Y-offset (Auto Levelling Only)

    This step is required to orientate the location of your probe in relation to the nozzle, allowing the software to compensate for offset. 

    1. Measure the distance (in mm) between your z-probe and the tip of your nozzle in two directions, as shown. 


    The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.

    (Measured along the Y-Axis)


    The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.

    (Measured along the X-Axis)

    2. Navigate to the Gcode Console Tab on the Printer Overview page.

    3. Set your probe X and Y-offset by sending the command M851 X## Y## through the gcode sender, built into Quinly. Where ## is the distance between the probe and the nozzle. The following information will help you translate what you see, when looking at the front of the printer, into the correct inputs.

               LEFT: If probe is left of the nozzle, use a dash (X-##)

               e.g. X-35 = probe is 35mm left of nozzle

               RIGHT: If probe is to the right of the nozzle, do not use a dash (X##)

               e.g. X35 = probe is 35mm right of nozzle 

              IN FRONT: If probe is in front of nozzle, use a dash (Y-##)

              e.g. Y-4 = probe is 4mm in front of nozzle

              BEHIND: If probe is behind the nozzle, do not use a dash (Y##)

              e.g. Y4 = probe is 4mm behind nozzle

    4. ENTER X and Y-offset values as described in previous step. Save settings to EEPROM with M500. Here’s an example: 

    M851 X-35 Y4 ; Probe is 35mm left and 4mm behind the nozzle.

    M500 ; Save settings to EEPROM 

    8.4 Software Check

    You can now upload your files and submit jobs! To ensure the system works correctly, we have provided a mock print that tests connection, heating, cooldown, and the clearing procedure. To check that the system has been properly installed, we advise you run a mock print (no need to install hardware or filament). 

    1. Download the Mock Print gcode from the resource page and upload it to Quinly. For clarification on creating print jobs, please see section 10.2. 
    1. Submit the job.
    1. Closely monitor your printer; the bed will elevate in temperature to 30℃ and the extruder to 40℃. The printer will probe if applicable, and proceed to trace a square over the bed at an offset of 5mm, before commencing a cooldown and clearing cycle*.

    MONITOR THIS PRINT: If at any stage it looks as if the print head will collide with the bed, stop the printer immediately and repeat Section 9.0.

    *the bed clearing procedure will not initiate until the bed reaches 25℃.

    9.0 Start Printing

    9.1 Settings in Cura

    Bed Temperature:

    For PLA we recommend a 60℃ bed temperature for optimum adhesion.

    Nozzle Temperature:  

    Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation.

    Skirts and Brims:

    We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting the skirt distance to 0.39mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Using a single line skirt allows easy post processing.

    Slicing Settings:

    Find the best slicing settles for your slicer here.

    9.2 Loading Your Print into Quinly

    1. Upload your sliced files, ensure that they are formatted as ‘.gcode’. Either from the main Printer Overview Page, or the files page.
    1. Select the file, hit the "Add to Queue" button, choose your quantity and release temperature (release temperature is the temperature at which your printer will reset at) and send it to the queue. 
    1. Ensure your first layer is adhering correctly; check for correct layer height or peeling. You may “Abort” the job on the Printers page if any fine-tuning is required.

      Note: When a job is aborted, a new job must be submitted to the queue, and the printer will be suspended. 

    9.3 Troubleshooting Your First Print

    If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server. 

    You may also take a look at our Troubleshooting Page for any additional issues you may encounter.

    First Layer not Sticking during printing

    1. Ensure that your bed temperature is set to 60℃.
    1. Clean the bed with dish soap and warm water as detailed in the bed installation guide.
    1. Make sure your z-offset is set correctly, the first layer should have some ”squish” as it is layed down, while still leaving room for filament to flow out of the nozzle.
    1. Increase your nozzle temperature, we have found that some PLAs enjoy a slightly hotter hotend for good bed and layer adhesion.
    1. Slow down your first layer, a little bit of patience can often be the key to a great print.

    Rough Overhangs

    1. Check part cooling fan. In your slicer, the fan speed should be set to 100% with the standard fan and you should see it spinning after the first layer.
    1. Incorrect nozzle temperature. Play with the temperature of your nozzle for printing. Too high or too low of a print temperature can cause rough overhangs very easily.

    Rough Print Surface

    1. Under extrusion, check to make sure your nozzle is set to at least the minimum temperature requirements of the filament.
    1. Your hotend may be clogged, try to remove the filament while hot, this should not have much friction.
    1. Ensure that you are not printing too fast for your nozzle.

    10.0 Introducing New Materials

    Now that you are starting to get familiar with Quinly, it's a matter of time before you will want to start experimenting with new materials. Here is our simple guide on optimizing bed temperature for first layer adhesion and worry-free part release. You may also reference the Materials Page for recommended settings.

    1. Bed temperature should be set to a default 60℃, this is always the starting point when introducing new materials.
    1. If adhesion is inadequate, or part release isn’t optimal, be sure to test the following before adjusting bed temperature. 
    • Ensure your bed is level and you are printing a consistent first layer.
    • If part release is an issue, try increasing your z-offset to reduce first layer squish.
    1. If neither approach resolves the issue, the following methodology can be applied;
    • If the first layer adhesion is too low: Raise the temperature in 5C increments until the first layer adheres consistently. 
    • If objects warp at upper layer heights: Lower temperature in 5C* increments.
    • These factors need to be balanced until an optimum bed temperature is found for a given material. 

    *It should be noted that lower bed temperatures can result in poor part release, and should only be used when absolutely necessary.

    11.0 Setting Up Your Workstation & Modifications

    You will be able to upload files and submit jobs from any supported desktop browser (we recommend Chrome or Firefox). A more detailed software manual can be found on our resources page.

    We simply orient our printer near the edge of a table, desk, workbench, etc. or place it on a stand. You can then use any bin or container to catch parts underneath! If you have cool catchment ideas, please share them with us! @3dque on Instagram.

    With Quinly you are still able to able to make any modifications to your printer as you please. Check out our bed cooling fan here to reduce your cooldown time: