Last Updated June 23, 2022
Bed
1 x VAAPR print bed
Tilt Frame
2 x Aluminum extrusion bases
4 x Rubber feet
Printed Parts
5 x Part guidance ramps (E3, E4, E5, E6, E7)
1 x Angle Bracket Left (E17)
1 x Angle Bracket Right (E18)
1 x Spool Holder Angle Bracket (E8)
1 x LCD mount bracket (E9)
Hardware
6 x M5 small T-nuts
4 x M5 large T-nuts
15 x M5 x 8mm screws (1 spare)
2 x M5 x 25mm screws
4 x M5 hex nuts
Accessories
1 x Boot Loader Kit
-USB Mini-B to USB-A (8 bit boards)
-USB Micro to USB-A (32 bit boards)
Optional:
All resources can be found on the Resources page. To access click here.
All downloads have been made available through the 3DQue Resources Page.
Note: If you have upgrades not mentioned in this flowchart, or wish to make your own custom firmware, there are instructions and files to help you in the "32 Bit Source Repository" located under the firmware packages on the Resources Page.
8-bit or 32-bit Creality Mainboard - Which do you have?
The process for flashing firmware is different for an 8-bit Creality Mainboard than a 32-bit Creality Mainboard. Ender 3 V2 and some Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro printers have 32-bit Creality Mainboards. The following guide will help you to identify which board you have, if you remain unsure, contact us at support@3dque.com.
Select Your Printer Type:
Note: If the upload fails, your board may not have a bootloader installed. To install a bootloader, continue to section 5.2.
Note: If you get the error "EEPROM VERSION" , then please hit "Ignore". Then in the LCD menu, navigate to Configuration > Store settings, then click. A "beep" should happen, and the error message should be resolved.
Another solution is to connect your Ender 3 to Pronterface via USB, and send the commands `M502` followed by `M500`
Note: Your Z offset will need to be recalibrated after flashing firmware.
Some Ender 3s with 8-bit controllers (V1.X.X) may not come with a preinstalled bootloader. In these cases you will be unable to update the firmware via USB. Luckily, this can be easily resolved by installing it yourself.
4. CONNECT TO PRINTER
a. Turn your printer off and disconnect it from the wall.
b. Open Mainboard cover. Do not remove this cover unless your printer is powered off and disconnected.
c. Check USBasp device is connected to the SPI pins on the Mainboard.
d. Locate the SPI pins (set of 6 pins next to the USB port on the Mainboard).
e. Locate the corresponding 6-pin connector on the USBasp device.
f. BEFORE CONNECTING CHECK ORIENTATION - It is incredibly important that you ensure the orientation is correct . Risk of permanent damage to the Mainboard.
g. Align the pin labeled “RST” to the Top Left SPI pin on the Mainboard.
5. CONNECT RIBBON CABLE the other end of the ribbon cable to the USB board plugged into your laptop. A blue light on the Mainboard should come on.
6. RUN OPENFIRMWARE for your operating system, e.g. “OpenFirmwareWindows.bat”.
a. Select Tools > Programmer, select “USBasp”.
b. Select Tools > Burn Bootloader.
7. Select Tools > Programmer, select “AVRISP mkII”
The Mainboard now has a bootloader and firmware can be updated via USB.
8. Replace the motherboard cover and re-connect your printer to power.
9. Return to Section 5.1 Update Ender 3 Firmware.
Note: If you have an Ender 3 V2 with LCD screen, you will also need to flash the Screen Firmware. Please see step 5.2 below.
Flashing Ender 3 V2 Screen Firmware
1. FORMAT SD CARD
a. Format an SD card to FAT32, default partition size and no volume label.
b. Find the DWIN_SET folder in the Firmware Updater Package and copy to the freshly formatted card.
2. INSTALL SD CARD
a. Unplug and remove the screen
b. Unscrew the 4 retaining screws from the back and pull off the cover.
c. Push SD card into unpowered screen.
3. UPDATE FIRMWARE
a. Plug screen into printer.
b. Power on and wait for the screen to light up orange.
4. REATTACH SCREEN
a. Power off printer.
b. Remove SD card.
c. Reassemble cover.
d. Plug back into into printer.
5. TURN ON PRINTER
Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro
1. Remove the spool holder and set the bolts and T-nuts aside.
2. Unscrew LCD display screen and put the bolts aside - do not unplug.
Ender 3 V2
1. Remove the spool holder and set the bolts and T-nuts aside.
2. Move LCD mount to the front of the upper slot of the printer extrusion. Set the upper bolt and T-nut aside.
3. Remove plastic extrusion end cap and tool drawer from the right hand side of the printer.
(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)
DO NOT USE ON THE ALCOHOL WIPES ON THE VAAPR PRINT BED.
Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!
(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water. SOAP MUST NOT BE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: 'HEAVY DUTY', SCENTED, OR ALCOHOL BASED. )
a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm or 2”
b. Align the bed corner markings with the back corners of the build surface and gently set in place.
c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).
d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the build plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table.
e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.
i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.
f. Once film is completely removed, Push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.
CAUTION! ALCOHOL, ACETONE, and most SOLVENTS will DAMAGE VAAPR print bed.
In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.
(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)
2. Attach the feet mounts (Q7) onto the ends of the provided aluminum extrusions, if not attached already
3. Using the T-nuts and M5 bolts, attach the larger sides of the angle brackets (E17/E18) to the provided extrusion to make the Quinly base:
4. Attach base to printer.
On the left ender extrusion loosen the bottom right bolt about 3mm
Clip the Front Ramp Left (E4) into the bottom slot of the Y-axis extrusion. A slot should align with the loosened bolt.
5. Flip the printer to the left side
Slide hex nuts into mount holes, push in with an allen key if needed
Attach the LCD to the mount with M5 bolts from behind
Attach the LCD mount to the original LCD mounting holes, leave the lower left bolt unscrewed about 3mm
Attach the Front Ramp Right (E5) the same as the left one. Attach the right tilt bracket in the same way as the left one
6. Place the printer upright and clip in the centre ramp (E3) then the side ramps (E6, E7) into the outer slots of the left and right Ender base extrusion
For a stock Ender 3 Install the Spool Holder Adapter.
This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.
Step 1: connect to Wifi.
Step 2: attach to printer.
USE EXTREME CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR BED.
A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.
a. MOVE NOZZLE TO ONE CORNER of build plate. Slide a piece of paper underneath it.
b. GRADUALLY MOVE NOZZLE TO Z = 0.
A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.
a. If the nozzle cannot touch the paper even when Z = 0, decrease your z-offset in 0.5mm increments, home XYZ and try again.
b. If your nozzle touches the paper before Z = 0, then increase your z-offset, home XYZ and try again.
ALWAYS check that print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.
This step is required to orientate the location of your probe in relation to the nozzle, allowing the software to compensate for offset.
Y-Offset
The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.
(Measured along the Y-Axis)
X-Offset
The distance from nozzle centre to probe centre.
(Measured along the X-Axis)
2. Navigate to the Gcode Console Tab on the Printer Overview page.
3. Set your probe X and Y-offset by sending the command M851 X## Y## through the gcode sender, built into Quinly. Where ## is the distance between the probe and the nozzle. The following information will help you translate what you see, when looking at the front of the printer, into the correct inputs.
LEFT: If probe is left of the nozzle, use a dash (X-##)
e.g. X-35 = probe is 35mm left of nozzle
RIGHT: If probe is to the right of the nozzle, do not use a dash (X##)
e.g. X35 = probe is 35mm right of nozzle
IN FRONT: If probe is in front of nozzle, use a dash (Y-##)
e.g. Y-4 = probe is 4mm in front of nozzle
BEHIND: If probe is behind the nozzle, do not use a dash (Y##)
e.g. Y4 = probe is 4mm behind nozzle
4. ENTER X and Y-offset values as described in previous step. Save settings to EEPROM with M500. Here’s an example:
M851 X-35 Y4 ; Probe is 35mm left and 4mm behind the nozzle.
M500 ; Save settings to EEPROM
You can now upload your files and submit jobs! To ensure the system works correctly, we have provided a mock print that tests connection, heating, cooldown, and the clearing procedure. To check that the system has been properly installed, we advise you run a mock print (no need to install hardware or filament).
MONITOR THIS PRINT: If at any stage it looks as if the print head will collide with the bed, stop the printer immediately and repeat Section 9.0.
Bed Temperature:
For PLA we recommend a 60℃ bed temperature for optimum adhesion.
Nozzle Temperature:
Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation.
Skirts and Brims:
We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting the skirt distance to 0.39mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Using a single line skirt allows easy post processing.
Slicing Settings:
Find the best slicing settles for your slicer here.
If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server.
You may also take a look at our Troubleshooting Page for any additional issues you may encounter.
Now that you are starting to get familiar with Quinly, it's a matter of time before you will want to start experimenting with new materials. Here is our simple guide on optimizing bed temperature for first layer adhesion and worry-free part release. You may also reference the Materials Page for recommended settings.
*It should be noted that lower bed temperatures can result in poor part release, and should only be used when absolutely necessary.
You will be able to upload files and submit jobs from any supported desktop browser (we recommend Chrome or Firefox). A more detailed software manual can be found on our resources page.
We simply orient our printer near the edge of a table, desk, workbench, etc. or place it on a stand. You can then use any bin or container to catch parts underneath! If you have cool catchment ideas, please share them with us! @3dque on Instagram.
With Quinly you are still able to able to make any modifications to your printer as you please. Check out our bed cooling fan here to reduce your cooldown time: