Quinly for Sidewinder X1/2

Last Updated Nov 15, 2021

Thank you for purchasing the Quinly for Artillery Sidewinder X1, an automated print management system compatible with Sidewinder X1 and X2 printers. Quinly works day and night, evenings and weekends, so you don’t have to. Quinly can run a well-calibrated, properly maintained 3D printer continuously until it runs out of filament. Quinly is also compatible with a variety of modifications. If you are unsure about the compatibility of your printer, please contact us.

Quinly automation is enabled by the VAAPR™ print bed which is the first surface for 3D printers offering variable adhesion - high first-layer adhesion when hot, and no first-later adhesion when it’s cold.

DO NOT USE adhesives, solvents, scrapers or sandpaper. DO NOT remove parts from a hot bed. These actions will damage the VAAPR™ print bed.

Follow this manual carefully and Quinly will save you hundreds of dollars scheduling jobs, uploading files, running prints, and removing parts. Quinly’s purpose is to make your life easier by saving you hours of scraping, taping, flexing, removing parts, scheduling jobs, and generally having to babysit your printer.

So please, set Quinly up for success, read this manual, follow the instructions carefully, and if you have any questions, contact us at support@3DQue.com or post them in our community Discord channel (https://discord.gg/JN9EDP8).

WARNING:3D printers have heated elements that pose a fire risk. Follow all manufacturers instructions and safety measures which may include not leaving the printer unattended without appropriate safety features in place. Incorrect firmware or slicing settings for your printer configuration may pose a hazard. If you are unsure, please contact 3DQue through the community Discord channel or support@3DQue.com.

1.0 What's in the Kit

Bed

  1 x VAAPR print bed

Tilt Frame

  2 x Aluminum extrusion bases

4 x Rubber feet

Printed Parts

 1 x Tilt Bracket Left (SW1)

 1 x Tilt Bracket Right (SW2)

Hardware

 4 x M5 large T-nuts

 2 x M5 small T-nuts

 6 x M5 x 8mm screws




2.0 What You'll Need

Equipment

  • >2GB Raspberry Pi 4
  • Raspberry Pi power source
  • 16GB micro SD card
  • Printer to RPi Cable: USB Micro to USB-A  (32 bit boards)
  • USB/SD to micro SD adapter (SD card reader)
  • CR-6 SE
  • Laptop or desktop computer
  • 3x cotton or microfiber cloths
  • Mild dish soap
  • Included alcohol wipes
  • 3mm Allen key

Optional:

  • Ethernet cable
  • USB memory stick
  • Raspberry Pi mount

3.0 3DQue Resources

All resources can be found on the Resources page. To access click here.

4.0 Preparation

Note : If you have the Quinly Wireless Hub, no downloads are required. Please continue to section 5.

All downloads have been made available through the 3DQue Resources Page

  1. Download the Raspberry Pi Imager.
  2. Download and extract Quinly software image file (quinly-x.x.x.zip). To access this image you will need to use the same email address you made the purchase with.

5.0 Assemble the Kit

5.1 Install VAAPR™ Bed

(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)

The VAAPR bed must be adhered to the aluminum build plate, and not a removable alternative. This is critical to the performance of this product.

  1. REMOVE your current print bed to expose the aluminum build plate. 
  1. CLEAN THE ALUMINUM: Air bubbles, dust and adhesive residue can affect print quality, use the provided alcohol wipes to create a clean, debris free surface. Dispose of the wipes when complete to avoid contamination of the bed.

DO NOT USE ON THE ALCOHOL WIPES ON THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!

(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water. SOAP MUST NOT BE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: 'HEAVY DUTY', SCENTED, OR ALCOHOL BASED. )



  1. HEAT BUILD PLATE: Set bed temperature to 40℃.
  1. WASH HANDS: before installing the VAAPR print bed to avoid transfer of oils or residue.
  2. INSTALL BED:

             a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm or 2” 

             b. Align the bed corner markings with the back corners of the build surface and gently set  in place. 

             c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).

             d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the build plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table. 

           e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.

                       i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.

             f. Once film is completely removed,  Push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.

  1. Clean the VAAPR print bed with a soft wet cloth and a drop of mild dish soap. 

CAUTION! ALCOHOL, ACETONE + SOLVENTS will DAMAGE VAAPR print bed.

In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.


5.2 Install Quinly Tilt Frame (Version 1)

  1. Attach the feet mounts (Q7) onto the ends of the provided aluminum extrusions, if not attached already, and ensure the top face of the extrusion is completely exposed.
  1. Using the provided large 3030 T-nuts and M5 bolts, install the tilt brackets (SW1) to the provided extrusion to make the Quinly base:
  2. Rotate-in the lower portion of the tilt bracket into the extrusion and fasten using the M5 8mm bolt and 3030 T-nut.
  3. The T-nut should rotate perpendicular to the slot as the bolt is fastened.
  4. Repeat the same steps for the mirrored bracket.
  5. Slide both brackets to the center of the extrusions and tighten the bolts as shown below.


  1. On a clean table, rotate and lay your Sidewinder X1/X2 on its right side.
  2. Remove the outermost Z-axis M5x40mm screw as this will be used to support the left tilt bracket.
  1. Using the left Quinly base, insert an M5x8mm screw on to the top portion of the tilt bracket, place a 2020 T-nut on to the Z-axis, and install the left Quinly base on to the 3D printer. 
  1. Using the M5x40mm, locate the last available screwhole and screw the tilt bracket via the Z-axis extrusion of the 3D printer.
  1. Rotate carefully and lay your 3D printer on its left side and repeat Steps 2-10.
  2. Once the Quinly base has been successfully installed, rotate your 3D printer upright and let base support the printer.


5.3 Install Quinly Tilt Frame (Version 2)

  1. On an open and clean table, rotate your Sidewinder X1/X2 on it’s right side to give you access to the z-gantry bolts underneath.
  1. Remove the outermost z-gantry bolt.
  2. Using the provided M5x50mm bolt and M5 washer, install the SW1 tilt bracket.
  1. Ensure that flat ledge of the tilt bracket is flush with the base of the 3D printer.
  2. Carefully rotate your 3D printer on it’s left side and repeat step 2 using SW2 tilt bracket.
  3. Ensure that the included rubber feet are installed under the tilt brackets if not pre-applied.
  4. Rotate your 3D printer and let it stand using the tilt brackets.

6.0 Installing Software

6.1 Plug & Play Quinly Wireless Hub

This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.

Step 1: connect to Wifi.

Step 2: attach to printer.

See Quinly Wireless Hub Setup

6.2 DIY Raspberry Pi 4 2GB with Micro SD Card

See DIY Pi Installation

7.0 Prepare for Automated Printing

7.1 Leveling Your Print Bed

USE EXTREME CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR BED.

Please follow your regular procedure of leveling your CR6-SE.

7.2 Calibrating Z- Offset


USE EXTREME CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR BED.

A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

  1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.
  1. HOME XYZ.
  1. HEAT THE PRINT BED to 60°C, it is important that the hotend remains cool.
  1. CENTER NOZZLE above middle of print bed.
  1. USING LCD SCREEN, gradually move the nozzle to Z = 0.

              a. If the nozzle cannot touch the paper even when Z = 0, decrease your z-offset in 0.5mm increments, home XYZ and try again.

              b. If your nozzle touches the paper before Z = 0, then increase your z-offset, home XYZ and try again.

  1. ADJUST Z-OFFSET setting until at Z = 0, you feel friction while sliding the paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  1. Save new z-offset settings to EEPROM by clicking “Store settings”.
  1. To ensure a proper calibration, home your printer using the G28 command or the LCD controls. Then, lower your Z axis to 0 and again slide a piece of paper under the nozzle, feeling for the same resistance as before.

ALWAYS check that print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.


7.3 Software Check

You can now upload your files and submit jobs! To ensure the system works correctly, we have provided a mock print that tests connection, heating, cooldown, and the clearing procedure. To check that the system has been properly installed, we advise you run a mock print (no need to install hardware or filament). 

  1. Download the Mock Print gcode from the resource page and upload it to Quinly. For clarification on creating print jobs, please see section 10.2. 
  1. Add the job to Queue.
  1. Closely monitor your printer; the bed will elevate in temperature to 30℃ and the extruder to 40℃. The printer will probe if applicable, and proceed to trace a square over the bed at an offset of 5mm, before commencing a cooldown and clearing cycle*.

MONITOR THIS PRINT: If at any stage it looks as if the print head will collide with the bed, stop the printer immediately and repeat Section 9.0.


*the bed clearing procedure will not initiate until the bed reaches 25℃.

8.0 Start Printing

8.1 Settings in Cura


Bed Temperature:

For PLA we recommend a 60°C bed and 225°C temperature for optimum adhesion. If PLA adhesion or release is insufficient at 60°/225°C, try increasing the bed and nozzle temperature in 5° increments, up to 75°C/250°C. For other materials, refer to our website for printing temperatures.

Nozzle Temperature:  

Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation.

Skirts and Brims:

We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting the skirt distance to 0.39mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Using a single line skirt allows easy post processing.


8.2 Loading Your Print into Quinly

  1. Upload your sliced files, ensure that they are formatted as ‘.gcode’. Either from the main Printer Overview Page, or the files page.
  2. Select the file, hit the "Add to Queue" button, choose your quantity and release temperature (release temperature is the temperature at which your printer will reset at) and send it to the queue. 
  3. Ensure your first layer is adhering correctly; check for correct layer height or peeling. You may “Abort” the job on the Printers page if any fine-tuning is required.

    Note: When a job is aborted, a new job must be submitted to the queue, and the printer will be suspended. 

8.3 Troubleshooting Your First Print

If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server. 

You may also take a look at our Troubleshooting Page for any additional issues you may encounter.

First Layer not Sticking during printing

  1. Ensure that your bed temperature is set to 60℃.
  1. Clean the bed with dish soap and warm water as detailed in the bed installation guide.
  1. Make sure your z-offset is set correctly, the first layer should have some ”squish” as it is layed down, while still leaving room for filament to flow out of the nozzle.
  1. Increase your nozzle temperature, we have found that some PLAs enjoy a slightly hotter hotend for good bed and layer adhesion.
  1. Slow down your first layer, a little bit of patience can often be the key to a great print.

Rough Overhangs

  1. Check part cooling fan. In your slicer, the fan speed should be set to 100% with the standard fan and you should see it spinning after the first layer.
  1. Incorrect nozzle temperature. Play with the temperature of your nozzle for printing. Too high or too low of a print temperature can cause rough overhangs very easily.

Rough Print Surface

  1. Under extrusion, check to make sure your nozzle is set to at least the minimum temperature requirements of the filament.
  1. Your hotend may be clogged, try to remove the filament while hot, this should not have much friction.
  1. Ensure that you are not printing too fast for your nozzle.

9.0 Introducing New Materials

Now that you are starting to get familiar with Quinly, it's a matter of time before you will want to start experimenting with new materials. Here is our simple guide on optimizing bed temperature for first layer adhesion and worry-free part release. You may also reference the Materials Page for recommended settings.

  1. Bed temperature should be set to a default 60℃, this is always the starting point when introducing new materials.
  1. If adhesion is inadequate, or part release isn’t optimal, be sure to test the following before adjusting bed temperature. 
  • Ensure your bed is level and you are printing a consistent first layer.
  • If part release is an issue, try increasing your z-offset to reduce first layer squish.
  1. If neither approach resolves the issue, the following methodology can be applied;
  • If the first layer adhesion is too low: Raise the temperature in 5C increments until the first layer adheres consistently. 
  • If objects warp at upper layer heights: Lower temperature in 5C* increments.
  • These factors need to be balanced until an optimum bed temperature is found for a given material. 

*It should be noted that lower bed temperatures can result in poor part release, and should only be used when absolutely necessary.


10.0 Setting Up Your Workstation & Modifications

You will be able to upload files and submit jobs from any supported desktop browser (we recommend Chrome or Firefox). A more detailed software manual can be found on our resources page.



We simply orient our printer near the edge of a table, desk, workbench, etc. or place it on a stand. You can then use any bin or container to catch parts underneath! If you have cool catchment ideas, please share them with us! @3dque on Instagram.

With Quinly you are still able to able to make any modifications to your printer as you please. Check out our bed cooling fan here to reduce your cooldown time: