We recommend installing the VAAPR print bed on the flexible magnetic plate that comes with the Prusa, or an equivalent alternative. The smooth, satin, or the textured flex plate surface can all be used to mount the VAAPR bed.
‍Only apply the VAAPR bed to a flexible magnetic plate, not the underlying surface.

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1. Remove the Prusa flex plate from your print bed. 
   

2. Clean the Prusa flex plate: Air bubbles, dust and adhesive residue can affect print quality, use the provided alcohol wipes on the Prusa flex plate to create a clean surface. 

DO NOT USE ON THE ALCOHOL WIPES ON THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!

(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water.)

3. Wash hands before installing the VAAPR print bed to avoid transfer of oils.
4. Install Bed:

             a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm 

             b. Align two bed corners with the back corners of the flex plate (not the underlying black plate) and gently set  in place. 

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               c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).

               d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the flex plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table. 

              e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.

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                     i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.

                f. Once film is completely removed, push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.

5. Clean the VAAPR print bed with a soft wet cloth and a drop of mild dish soap. 

CAUTION! ALCOHOL, ACETONE + SOLVENTS will DAMAGE VAAPR print bed.

Note: In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR print bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.

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7.1 Plug & Play Quinly Wireless Hub

This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.

Step 1: connect to Wifi.

Step 2: attach to printer.

See Quinly Wireless Hub Setup

7.2 DIY Raspberry Pi 4 2GB with Micro SD Card

See DIY Pi Installation

USE CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

UNOFFICIAL Z PROBES MAY CAUSE UNRELIABLE BED LEVELLING.

Please use official Prusa Z probes to prevent damaging the VAAPR bed.

1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.

2. Ensure the Z probe is 0.8-1mm above the tip of your nozzle. If the probe is too high up, the sensing distance will be insufficient due to the thickness of the VAAPR bed, and the nozzle will push into the bed during auto-levelling.
   
   
3. Carefully lower the Z axis until the tip of the nozzle is just barely touching the bed, and then adjust the height of your Z probe. The ideal height is 0.8-1mm, about the thickness of the tip of a zip-tie or a credit card. (Use an expired credit card / old gift card. The bed magnets may damage an active credit card)

4. Begin the First Layer Calibration routine and follow the steps as shown on the Prusa website for the offset on a "smooth sheet". Make sure to select the option to start at an offset of 0.000. The zig-zag calibration pattern should start. Slowly rotate the LCD knob counter-clockwise until the filament is printing flat and smooth on the bed.

Check that the print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.

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Bed Temperature:

For PLA we recommend a 60°C bed and 225°C temperature for optimum adhesion. If PLA adhesion or release is insufficient at 60°/225°C, try increasing the bed and nozzle temperature in 5° increments, up to 75°C/250°C. For other materials, refer to our website for printing temperatures.

Nozzle Temperature:  

Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation, but initial layer nozzle temperature may need to be increased for some materials. 

Skirts and Brims:

We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting skirt distance equal to nozzle diameter. For example, use a 0.4mm skirt distance with a 0.4 mm nozzle. Increasing the skirt height to 1.0mm will ensure that the skirt is auto-cleared along with the part.

Slicing Settings:

‍Find the best slicing settles for your slicer here.

1. Upload your sliced files, ensure that they are formatted as ‘.gcode’. Either from the main Printer Overview Page, or the files page.
2. Select the file, hit the "Add to Queue" button, choose your quantity and release temperature (release temperature is the temperature at which your printer will reset at) and send it to the queue. 
3. Ensure your first layer is adhering correctly; check for correct layer height or peeling. You may “Abort” the job on the Printers page if any fine-tuning is required.
   
   Note: When a job is aborted, a new job must be submitted to the queue, and the printer will be suspended. 

If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server. 

You may also reference our Troubleshooting page.

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First Layer not Sticking during printing

1. Ensure that your bed temperature is set to 45-60°C.
   

2. Clean the bed with dish soap and warm water as detailed in the bed installation guide.
   

3. Make sure your z-offset is set correctly, the first layer should have some ”squish” as it is layed down, while still leaving room for filament to flow out of the nozzle.

4. Increase your nozzle temperature by 10 degrees for the first layer. This improves first-layer adhesion.
   

5. Slow down your first layer, a little bit of patience can often be the key to a great print.
6. Increase your first layer extrusion width to 125-150% of your nozzle diameter for thicker lines that stick better.

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Rough Overhangs

1. Check the part cooling fan. In your slicer, the fan speed should be set to 100% with the standard fan and you should see it spinning after the first few layers are printed.
   

2. Incorrect nozzle temperature. Adjust the temperature of your nozzle for printing. Too high or too low of a print temperature can cause rough overhangs very easily.
   
3. Outer wall speed is too high.
   
4. Layers are too thin.

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Rough Print Surface

1. Under / over extrusion. Ensure your extrusion multiplier is set correctly. 
   

2. Check to make sure your nozzle is set to at least the minimum temperature requirements of the filament.
   

3. Your hotend may be clogged or partially clogged.
4. Ensure that you are not printing too fast.

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