Quinly for Prusa MK3/S/+

Last Updated Oct 18, 2021


Thank you for purchasing the Quinly for Prusa MK3S, an automated print management system. Quinly works day and night, evenings and weekends, so you don’t have to. Quinly can run a well-calibrated, properly maintained 3D printer continuously until it runs out of filament. Quinly is also compatible with a variety of modifications. If you are unsure about compatibility please contact us.

Quinly automation is enabled by the VAAPR™ print bed which is the first surface for 3D printers offering variable adhesion - high first-layer adhesion when hot, and no first-layer adhesion when it’s cold. 

DO NOT USE adhesives, solvents, scrapers. DO NOT remove parts from a hot bed. These actions will damage the VAAPR print bed and Quinly will not work properly.

Follow this manual carefully and Quinly will save you hundreds of hours scheduling jobs, uploading files, running prints, and removing parts. Quinly’s purpose is to make your life easier by saving you hours of scraping, taping, flexing, removing parts, scheduling jobs, and generally having to babysit your printer. 

So please, set Quinly up for success - read this manual, follow the instructions carefully, and if you have any questions, contact us at support@3DQue.com or post them in our community Discord channel (https://discord.gg/JN9EDP8). 

To get even better quality from your printer, we recommend installing an automatic bed-leveling system before using this product. We provide firmware options for Inductive Probes and BL Touch.

WARNING: 3D printers have heated elements that pose a fire risk. Follow all manufacturers instructions and safety measures which may include not leaving the printer unattended without appropriate safety features in place. Incorrect firmware or slicing settings for your printer configuration may pose a hazard. If you are unsure, please contact 3DQue through the community Discord channel or support@3DQue.com

1.0 What's in the Kit

Please note: We have modified the hardware in June 2022 to remove the need for  aluminum extrusions, so there are 2 different kits. They are functionally the same but will require different installation processes. If your kit has aluminum extrusions, it is Version 1. Otherwise it is Version 2.

Version 1


Bed

  1 x VAAPR print bed

Tilt Frame

  2 x 3030 Aluminum extrusion bases

  4 x Rubber feet

Printed Parts

  2 x Angled tilt brackets (P2)

  3 x Part guidance ramps (P3, P4, P5)

  • Center Ramp (P3)
  • Front Ramp Left (P4)
  • Front Ramp Right (P5)

  2 x LCD mount bracket (P6)

  2 x LCD wire clips (P7)

  4 x 3030 Endcaps (Q7)


Hardware

9x M5x8 Button head screws (1 spare)

9x M5 3030 T nuts (1 spare)

Version 2

Bed

  1 x VAAPR print bed

Printed Parts

  1 x Front Brace (P1)

  3 x Part guidance ramps (P3, P4, P5)

  • Center Ramp (P3)
  • Front Ramp Left (P4)
  • Front Ramp Right (P5)

  2 x LCD mount bracket (P6)

  2 x LCD wire clips (P7)

  1 x Left Tilt Bracket (P10)

  1 x Right Tilt Bracket (P11)


Hardware

5 x M5x8 Button head screws (1 spare)

5 x M5 3030 T nuts (1 spare)

4 x Rubber Feet


2.0 What You'll Need

Equipment

  • Quinly Wireless hub

    OR
  • >2GB Raspberry Pi 4
  • Raspberry Pi power source
  • 16GB micro SD card

  

  • USB/SD to micro SD adapter (SD card reader)
  • Prusa MK3S
  • Laptop or desktop computer
  • 3x cotton or microfiber cloths
  • Mild dish soap
  • 3mm Allen key


Optional:

  • Ethernet cable
  • USB memory stick
  • Raspberry Pi mount (included with the Pi Kit)

3.0 3DQue Resources

All resources can be found on the Resources page. To access click here.

4.0 Preparation

Note : If you have the Quinly Wireless Hub, no downloads are required. Please continue to section 5.

All downloads have been made available through the 3DQue Resources Page

  1. All downloads have been made available through the 3DQue Resources Page
  2. Download and install the Raspberry Pi Imager.
  3. Download and extract Quinly software image file (quinly-x.x.x.zip). To access this image you will need to use the same email address you made the purchase with.
  4. Download firmware (3.10.0) in the next section.

5.0 Getting Your Printer Ready for Automation

5.1 Update Prusa Firmware

Please ensure your Prusa i3 MK3 firmware is version VERSION 3.10.0 or newer. Download here, and install as per Prusa Instructions. 

5.2 Disable Pi Mode

Go to your LCD Menu → Settings → RPi Port → “off”.

5.3 Remove SD Card

Remove the SD card from the printer. When plugged in, it can interfere with the connection stability between Quinly and the printer.

6.0 Assemble the Kit

6.1 Install VAAPR™ Bed

(For the video tutorial, see the resource page.)

We recommend installing the VAAPR print bed on the flexible magnetic plate that comes with the Prusa, or an equivalent alternative. The smooth, satin, or the textured flex plate surface can all be used to mount the VAAPR bed.
Only apply the VAAPR bed to a flexible magnetic plate, not the underlying surface.

*


  1. Remove the Prusa flex plate from your print bed. 
  1. Clean the Prusa flex plate: Air bubbles, dust and adhesive residue can affect print quality, use the provided alcohol wipes on the Prusa flex plate to create a clean surface. 


DO NOT USE ON THE ALCOHOL WIPES ON THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

Alcohol irreversibly damages the print surface!


(ONLY clean the VAAPR print bed with mild soap and water.)


  1. Wash hands before installing the VAAPR print bed to avoid transfer of oils.
  2. Install Bed:

             a. Peel adhesive film back about 5cm 

             b. Align two bed corners with the back corners of the flex plate (not the underlying black plate) and gently set  in place. 

               c. Peel off most of the adhesive film and hang it in front of the build plate, leaving just enough to cover the area where you grip the bed (1-2 cm).

               d. Using one hand - press a small portion of the top edge of the bed into place on the flex plate and flex it into a slight curve like a spatula pushed down onto a table. 

              e. While still flexing the bed, use a clean microfiber cloth to press out the air bubbles in a ‘V’ pattern, starting from the middle to the top edges.

                     i. As you get to the bottom, instead of flexing the bed, use the cloth to press out air bubbles while pulling out the rest of the backing.

                f. Once film is completely removed, push down on the bed vertically from top to bottom, working across to ensure an even application.


  1. Clean the VAAPR print bed with a soft wet cloth and a drop of mild dish soap. 

CAUTION! ALCOHOL, ACETONE + SOLVENTS will DAMAGE VAAPR print bed.


Note: In the event you wish to remove the VAAPR print bed, please consult 3DQue for a safe removal technique.


6.2 Install Quinly Hardware (Version 1)

  1. Remove LCD and spool holder, keep mounting hardware for relocation
  2. Attach angled tilt brackets. Using the T-nuts and M5 bolts, attach the sides of the angled tilt brackets (P2) to the provided extrusion to make the Quinly base:

Tilt-in the edge to the extrusion and fasten with an M5 8mm bolt and T-nut: the T-nut should rotate perpendicular to the slot as the bolt is fastened.


Ensure the tilt bracket is pushed to the front of the extrusion:

Repeat with the other bracket, mirrored for the left side.


3. Attach tilting frame to printer:

  • Rotate the printer onto the right side
  • Place a T-nut into the left side of the left 3030 extrusion
  • Tilt in the left bracket to the 3030 extrusion

          i. Using a free hand, align the t-nut with the allen key, then fasten with an M5 bolt

         ii. Fasten a nut in the rear hole as well

        iii. The bracket should be flush against the the overhanging edge of the front plate


4. Flip the printer to the left side

  • Attach the right tilt bracket in the same way as the left one


5. Flip printer upright

  • Clip the guidance panels (P4, P5) onto the inside of the Prusa frame as shown below, ensuring they come flush with the frontplate


6. Attach front guidance panel

  • Take off the Prusa flex plate.
  • Remove the front 3 screws as well as the 3 spacers separating the bed from the Y axis mounting plate.



  • Push the spacers into the holes:
  • Insert the front guidance panel, align the holes and replace the screws. 

7. Relocate LCD

  • Remove LCD cover
  • Attach the mounting brackets to the circuit board as shown below: 


  • Replace the LCD cover
  • Clip the brackets onto the top of the frame as shown below. You may need to shift over the spool holder.


  • Reroute the LCD cable as shown below, using the two wire clips (P7) to keep the wires out of the way.


8. Done!


6.3 Install Quinly Hardware (Version 2)

  1. Remove the LCD and spool holder, keep the mounting hardware for later.
  2. Prepare the P10 and P11 tilt brackets by installing the M5x8mm and 3030 T-nuts.
  3. Using the provided rubber feet, peel off and adhere to the bottom of the tilt brackets (P10/P11) and front feet (P1).
  1. Unscrew the following screws at the front of the printer:
  1. Install front feet (P1) using the screws from previous step.
  1. Rotate and lay the MK3/S/+ printer on its right side.
  2. Using P10 tilt bracket, slide in the front t nut without tightening it, as shown below.
  1. Slide back P10 until the z-frame of the printer sits on the notch of the tilt bracket, as shown below.
  1. Slide the bed forward and slide in the rear bolt/t nut.
  1. Move the bed backward and tighten the front bolt/ t nut.
  2. Rotate the printer and lay it on its left side and repeat steps 7 to 10 using P11.
  3. Once tilt brackets are installed properly, rotate the printer and allow it to stand on the tilt brackets.
  4. Clip the guidance panels (P4,P5) onto the inside of the MK3/S/+ frame as show below, ensuring they come flush with the front plate.
  1. Take off the MK3/S/+ flex plate.
  2. Remove the front 3 screws as well as the 3spacers separating the bed from the Y axis mounting plate.
  1. Push the spacers into the holes of the P3 Front ramps.
  1. Insert the front ramp, align the holes andreplace the screws.
  1. Remove the LCD Cover.
  2. Attach the mounting brackets to the circuitboard as shown below:
  1. Replace the LCD cover:
  1. Clip the brackets onto the top of the frame as shown below. You may need to shift over the spool holder.

  1. Reroute the LCD cable as shown below using the two wire clips (P7) to keep the cables out of the way.
  1. Done!


7.0 Installing Software

7.1 Plug & Play Quinly Wireless Hub

This comes preloaded with Quinly software on a micro SD card and includes a protective case, fan, power supply, and cables.

Step 1: connect to Wifi.

Step 2: attach to printer.

See Quinly Wireless Hub Setup

7.2 DIY Raspberry Pi 4 2GB with Micro SD Card

See DIY Pi Installation

8.0 Prepare for Automated Printing

8.1 Calibrating Z- Offset


USE CAUTION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE VAAPR PRINT BED.

A nozzle scraping the bed will cause permanent damage.

UNOFFICIAL Z PROBES MAY CAUSE UNRELIABLE BED LEVELLING.

Please use official Prusa Z probes to prevent damaging the VAAPR bed.


  1. Make sure your nozzle is clean and cool before proceeding.

  1. Ensure the Z probe is 0.8-1mm above the tip of your nozzle. If the probe is too high up, the sensing distance will be insufficient due to the thickness of the VAAPR bed, and the nozzle will push into the bed during auto-levelling.

  2. Carefully lower the Z axis until the tip of the nozzle is just barely touching the bed, and then adjust the height of your Z probe. The ideal height is 0.8-1mm, about the thickness of the tip of a zip-tie or a credit card. (Use an expired credit card / old gift card. The bed magnets may damage an active credit card)

  1. Begin the First Layer Calibration routine and follow the steps as shown on the Prusa website for the offset on a "smooth sheet". Make sure to select the option to start at an offset of 0.000. The zig-zag calibration pattern should start. Slowly rotate the LCD knob counter-clockwise until the filament is printing flat and smooth on the bed.

Check that the print bed is level and z-offset is calibrated before attempting to print any parts.


8.2 Software Check

You can now upload your files and submit jobs! To ensure the system works correctly, we have provided a mock print that tests connection, heating, cooldown, and the clearing procedure. To check that the system has been properly installed, we advise you run a mock print (no need to install hardware or filament). 

  1. Download the Mock Print gcode from the resource page and upload it to Quinly. For clarification on creating print jobs, please see section 10.2. 
  1. Submit the job.
  1. Closely monitor your printer; the bed will elevate in temperature to 30℃ and the extruder to 40℃. The printer will probe if applicable, and proceed to trace a square over the bed at an offset of 5mm, before commencing a cooldown and clearing cycle*.

MONITOR THIS PRINT: If at any stage it looks as if the print head will collide with the bed, stop the printer immediately and repeat Section 9.0.


*the bed clearing procedure will not initiate until the bed reaches 25℃.

9.0 Start Printing!

9.1 Print Settings


Bed Temperature:

For PLA we recommend a 60°C bed and 225°C temperature for optimum adhesion. If PLA adhesion or release is insufficient at 60°/225°C, try increasing the bed and nozzle temperature in 5° increments, up to 75°C/250°C. For other materials, refer to our website for printing temperatures.


Nozzle Temperature:  

Follow the filament manufacturers recommendation, but initial layer nozzle temperature may need to be increased for some materials. 


Skirts and Brims:

We recommend turning on the skirt for priming and setting skirt distance equal to nozzle diameter. For example, use a 0.4mm skirt distance with a 0.4 mm nozzle. Increasing the skirt height to 1.0mm will ensure that the skirt is auto-cleared along with the part.


Slicing Settings:

Find the best slicing settles for your slicer here.

9.2 Loading Your Print into Quinly

  1. Upload your sliced files, ensure that they are formatted as ‘.gcode’. Either from the main Printer Overview Page, or the files page.
  2. Select the file, hit the "Add to Queue" button, choose your quantity and release temperature (release temperature is the temperature at which your printer will reset at) and send it to the queue. 
  3. Ensure your first layer is adhering correctly; check for correct layer height or peeling. You may “Abort” the job on the Printers page if any fine-tuning is required.

    Note: When a job is aborted, a new job must be submitted to the queue, and the printer will be suspended. 


9.3 Troubleshooting Your First Print

If you are not getting optimal finish, bed adhesion or part release, it’s likely to be an issue associated with your printing parameters. This guide will help with basic troubleshooting. For more advanced support, please join our community Discord server. 

You may also reference our Troubleshooting page.


First Layer not Sticking during printing

  1. Ensure that your bed temperature is set to 45-60°C.
  1. Clean the bed with dish soap and warm water as detailed in the bed installation guide.
  1. Make sure your z-offset is set correctly, the first layer should have some ”squish” as it is layed down, while still leaving room for filament to flow out of the nozzle.
  1. Increase your nozzle temperature by 10 degrees for the first layer. This improves first-layer adhesion.
  1. Slow down your first layer, a little bit of patience can often be the key to a great print.
  2. Increase your first layer extrusion width to 125-150% of your nozzle diameter for thicker lines that stick better.

Rough Overhangs

  1. Check the part cooling fan. In your slicer, the fan speed should be set to 100% with the standard fan and you should see it spinning after the first few layers are printed.
  1. Incorrect nozzle temperature. Adjust the temperature of your nozzle for printing. Too high or too low of a print temperature can cause rough overhangs very easily.
  2. Outer wall speed is too high.
  3. Layers are too thin.

Rough Print Surface

  1. Under / over extrusion. Ensure your extrusion multiplier is set correctly. 
  1. Check to make sure your nozzle is set to at least the minimum temperature requirements of the filament.
  1. Your hotend may be clogged or partially clogged.
  2. Ensure that you are not printing too fast.

10.0 Introducing New Materials

Now that you are starting to get familiar with Quinly, it's a matter of time before you will want to start experimenting with new materials. Here is our simple guide on optimizing bed temperature for first layer adhesion and worry-free part release. You may also reference the Materials Page for recommended settings.

  1. Bed temperature should be set to a default 60℃, this is always the starting point when introducing new materials.
  1. If adhesion is inadequate, or part release isn’t optimal, be sure to test the following before adjusting bed temperature. 
  • Ensure your bed is level and you are printing a consistent first layer.
  • If part release is an issue, try increasing your z-offset to reduce first layer squish.
  1. If neither approach resolves the issue, the following methodology can be applied;
  • If the first layer adhesion is too low: Raise the temperature in 5C increments until the first layer adheres consistently. 
  • If objects warp at upper layer heights: Lower temperature in 5C* increments.
  • These factors need to be balanced until an optimum bed temperature is found for a given material. 

*It should be noted that lower bed temperatures can result in poor part release, and should only be used when absolutely necessary.


11.0 Setting Up Your Workstation & Modifications

You will be able to upload files and submit jobs from any supported desktop browser (we recommend Chrome or Firefox). A more detailed software manual can be found on our resources page.



We simply orient our printer near the edge of a table, desk, workbench, etc. or place it on a stand. You can then use any bin or container to catch parts underneath! If you have cool catchment ideas, please share them with us! @3dque on Instagram.

With Quinly you are still able to able to make any modifications to your printer as you please. Check out our bed cooling fan here to reduce your cooldown time: